Pals Beach, between Begur and Pals, near Medes Islands, in Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

In Pals Beach, the Costa Brava is for a few kilometers no more “brava” arriving at l’Estartit harbour, where, again, begins the succession of rocky coves to the north.

However, precisely because of its width and for its warm sand, this wide beach, commonly known as Platja de Pals, actually still belongs to the Begur village,  and is very visited in summer, especially by the inhabitants of the area who prefer to enjoy a wide and spacious beach before staying in the little creeks, perhaps the most beautiful in a natural sense, although less comfortable for the space to share.

Pals Beach has many attractions. Facing toward the Medes Islands, in the background, they are a reference point that is never lost. The beach also allows interesting walks through the coast: to the south, toward the Begur massif, begins a coastal path that, through the nudist beach Illa Roja, brings us to the cove of Sa Riera. North along the beach takes you to the mouth of the river Daró and, a little further to the Ter.

To the south, from Pals Beach, we can visit in ten minutes the beautiful beach (nudist) Illa Roja, also in Begur

Another of the natural characteristics of this beautiful beach are dunes, real ecosystems that develop in accumulations of wind-borne sand. In these regions they are due to the strong north wind, the Tramuntana, which manages to carry large amounts of sand from the bay of Roses until just before the mountains of Begur. Therefore the plant species who grow here are of high scientific value and are studied with great interest, so it was decided to protect them from human action and, walking along the coast, you will find their access restricted by strings. Please do not pass them to not harm this delicate habitat.

Pals dunes are protected ecosystems created by the Tramuntana wind action on the beach sand

The Raco beach is 400 meters long and 40 meters wide, and it is a continuum of several kilometers of beach that reaches l’Estartit village. In it there is always space for everyone, even in summer, making it the perfect choice for visitors to the small coves of Begur who prefer sunbathing with some extra space in the sand. It also has showers, several bars, hire pedalos and bars and restaurants very close to beach. In addition there are several sailing sports centers that offer the perfect opportunity to get started in sports such as sailing and windsurfing, taking advantage of the excellent wind conditions offered by Platja del Racó.

Platja del Racó is a wide sandy beach that allow many leisure activities for children and adults

Cala d'Aiguablava, in Begur, Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

This cove is superbly conditioned, and the access is really easy, as it has a large car park at its entrance. To get there, take the road that connects Begur and Palafrugell villages and take the signposted deviation.

Cala Aiguablava is really lively in midsummer. It has excellent services, as showers, parking, kayak rental and a bar-restaurant.

Aiguablava is 75 meters long and about 25 meters wide. You will find showers. The cove is surrounded by greenery, and a fairly privileged geographical position, as you will be able to admire, far away in north direction, the Cap de Begur, as well as the mountains surrounding the village of Begur in the east.

Crystal blue underwaters in Cala Aiguablava is really impressive

To the right of the creek, before descending the stairs of access, in the parking, begins a beautiful coastal path that, protected by the shade of pine trees and a wooden railing, and after offering beautiful views over the water, will lead you to an imposing hotel located next to this cove, in the Punta des Mut cape: we are talking about the Parador Nacional Aiguablava, the only hotel of this kind in the province of Girona. It was inaugurated in 1966, and its creation reflects the objective of the government to boost tourism in the area. The Parador is open throughout the year and broadens the demand of tourists who wish to visit Begur in winter.

North of the creek begins another coastal path that, after a succession of small coves and little ports, brings us finally to Fornells port and Platja Fonda. This way can be taken through the coastal path that starts on the left side of Cala Aiguablava.

North Aiguablava you'll find Port de Fornells and Platja Fonda, but the better views of Cape of Begur are actually in Aiguablava creek

From Aiguablava leave many canoes and small boats to the south of its coast, right to the most attractive sea caves of the Costa Brava and the entire Catalan coast, including the most famous, the Cova d’en Gispert, which allows passage of a canoe until the end of it, 150 meters long inside.

Cala de Sa Riera, in Begur. Background, Medes Islands.

Cala Sa Riera can be reached from the center of village by car (no more than 10 minutes), through a road that starts near Carmen Amaya villa, Mas Pinc. The descent down the road, about 5 minutes, offers some incredible views of Medes Islands in the distance, which are always present in the landscape of the creek. The road crosses the geographic feature that gives name to the creek: a little river (riera) that comes down from the mountain of Begur seaward, always dry in summer. At the entrance, this ancient mosaic welcomes us.

"Friend: it's not a pure mirage, not even a fable... SA RIERA is a beautiful place in Costa Brava. Welcome, enjoy it"

One of the reasons why Sa Riera is so popular, in addition to its amplitude, is the huge number of services it offers to its visitors. This creek is very familiar and children and adults will feel comfortable. The sea view boulevard has banks where you can sit and admire the wonderful view of the bay as a whole. It is also possible to sit in one of its many terraces, restaurants or bars, where you can enjoy a good drink in the shade.

Cala de Sa Riera is wide, with golden sand and very familiar, with good facilities

Sa Riera has services to a shower and boardwalk to the sand about, so that people in wheelchairs can also enter.

The creek has traditionally been a fishing village, and therefore still remain at the forefront some of these houses, evidence of a past still alive in direct contact with nature. If you look with attention you will verify the typical structure of a ground floor in which the vessel is often introduced to protect the storm, and a first floor that was proper housing. This seafaring past still lives on in the form of the little harbour, located in the southern part and adapted for little sport or traditional boats.

From Sa Riera begins, both sides, two separate coastal paths. To the south, further the small cove of Port del Pi, the path leads to a long stretch of unspoilt coastline forming the Natural Reserve of Ses Negres, a protected marine area of a great ecological value.

On the right side of Cala Sa Riera starts a coastal path that goes over a good stretch of Ses Negres Marine Reserve

To the south, once we cross the creek called Cala del Rei, with its excellent viewpoint, another walkway leads over the wonderful Illa Roja creek and, later, the beach of Pals.

Sa Riera image, once we walk over Cala del Rei, to Cala Illa Roja, through the coastal path

La cala de Platja Fonda, en Begur, Costa Brava

To access Platja Fonda (literally ‘Deep beach’) from the center of Begur you’ve to take the same road that leads to Aiguablava or Fornells. Before arriving to Aiguablava, a left turn allows us to go through an urbanisation and park in a parking in a place from where we’ll descend on foot to our destination.

Platja Fonda panoramic view, in Begur, where you can see the impressive cliff on it

Platja Fonda is surrounded by a great wall that protects it. In fact we access to the beach through a set of stairs, in good condition, allowing us to see the cove with scenic views. Access is certainly one of the reasons why this creek has managed to remain so unspoilt and wild over the years.

Playa Fonda waters are blue and almost transparent, with a great fish richness

It has about 130 meters long and 35 wide. It features dark shades, due to the color of the sand (dark colored gravel) as well as by the shadow that the great back wall can project back on its waters. In summer it offers service bar.

Picture from the stairs downloading to Platja Fonda

The villa on the right, facing the sea, on Cap de Rubi, was owned by Dr. Arruga, a distinguished catalan ophthalmologist who stayed in Begur. On this side a coastal path leads to the port of Fornells (Fornells harbour).

Sun and shadows at sunset in Platja Fonda, Begur

Ses Negres Marine Reserve, in Begur, Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

The first Marine Reserve was created in the Costa Brava  in 1983 on the Medes Islands, located 5 miles northeast of Ses Negres. 10 years later Ses Negres was created, which covers an area of 80 ha and that has several aspects of interest. It is an area which also has strong cliffs reaching even 23.5 meters.

On Ses Negres coastline you'll find high cliffs. Underwater deep is also very important

Oriented NNE it is exposed to winds from the north (Tramuntana) and east, whose strength, added by that of the water and strong waves, have been shaping the curious rock morphology we find nowadays. In Ses Negres you can not fish, and you cannot sail near the shores with any kind of boat motor. The area is marked out and watched from the shore, and on several occasions their offenders have been reported. The transfer zone away from the edge is limited by a marked channel and speed is limited.

However, it is possible to snorkel in this piece of coast, since this is a friendly environment activity. You can even sail along the entire shore by kayak, with no limitations (but no fish!). Ses Negres underwater, after almost 20 years of protection has today a significant ecological recovery. Thus, we find forests of sea grass and coral.

After 20 years of underwater protection Ses Negres deep water show magnificent to the visitors

Another important part of the ecosystem of Ses Negres is the mouth of the Ter river, about 3.5 kms north. During the rainy season in spring and autumn, the materials dragged by the river to its mouth are carried by ocean streams south to Ses Negres. These organic material contribute to the development of native species.

Ses Negres area can be visited on foot from various points. From the Sa Riera creek, to the right, facing the sea, begins a coastal path that runs along a part of this magnificent coast. Another well-known  access point is Sa Nau Perduda, a small urbanisation located near Cala Aiguafreda.

Coastal zone near Ses Negres. Fishing in Ses Negres restricted zone is not allowed, even not fishing rod.

This impressive reddish big rock is located in front of the Cala de la Illa Roja, in Begur, Costa Brava

The creek, formed by a long beach, is located between north Begur and south Pals. In fact it is part of the landscape through which runs the coastal path between Sa Riera (in Begur) and Platja del Raco (in Pals).

Illa Roja creek is very quiet and nudism is allowed

Illa Roja cove length is about 120 meters and a width of 20, being flanked on the rear wall by a huge rock on which the mentioned coastal path runs. Illa Roja is the only beach in Begur where you can practice nudism.

Colour richness is unique in this landscape surrounded by cliffs

Due to its location it can not be reached directly by car, if not going through this coastal path. The easiest way to reach Illa Roja is from Platja de Pals (Pals Beach) side, in the north. You will be able to enjoy a fine golden sandy cove with clear water, very large and with very little agglomeration. No showers are available, but a beach bar is set up in summer. Views of Medes Islands in the distance, little miles away, are really impressive.

Picture taken from the coastal path that runs between Sa Riera beach (in Begur) and Pals Beach

One of the main attractions Illa Roja cove offers to the bathers are the snorkel activities. Around the big red rock in front of the beach grows an important underwater population of fish and other marine species. So don’t forget your dive mask to enjoy this opportunity when come to Illa Roja beach.

Cova d'en Gispert, in Begur, Girona, Costa Brava. Author: Josep Castelló.

Cova d’en Gispert, we insist, is the longest sea cave that can be found on the Costa Brava. It is located among Aiguaxelida and Aiguablava coves, in Begur. One of the best ways to reach the cave is by kayak, leaving from Cala Aiguablava (in summer are usually hired on the beach), or from Aiguaxelida (here certainly you will not find this service, it’s a natural cove). If you are interested in a longer trip you can start from Tamariu (the next beach south to Aiguaxelida, here you can also rent kayaks) or Fornells (north of Aiguablava). They all belong to Begur municipality.

In any case sailing or just kayaking the rocky coast between the points mentioned is a true pleasure and really impressive. We are facing a coastline formed by granite walls, some with a pink color tone, some of them up to 50 meters high. In this stretch of coast, in addition to the Cova d’en Gispert, we can find another caves, such as the Cova del Bisbe, where you can also come in.

It's possible to come into Cova d'en Gispert by kayak, until the end, 150 meters long

The cave has a length of almost 150 meters in total. Although the entrance is not really wide, you can cross it with your kayak and arrive to the end. The entrance is always visible from any point of the cave, so there is no possibility of getting lost, because the trajectory of the cave is straight.

We distinguish two different parts in the total length of the cave. In one of the parts there is the gallery, which occupies the first 93 meters from the entrance of the cave. In this section the width of the cave varies between 3 and 8 meters, while the distance from the ceiling on the water level varies between 7 and 10. The depth also varies between 4 and 8 meters. After passing through a sort of portico we enter the final room, which surprises us by its magnitude, about 28 meters by 19 meters, with 22 meters high. The center of the room is occupied by a small island where there is the so-called “Taula”(table), a flat rocky surface on which we can even sit. However, some meters before the gate opens a branch about 10 meters long, which allows also underwater passage to the final room.

Interior map of Cova d'en Gispert

Cova d’en Gispert has aroused passions among many visitors. Probably the most famous reaction was that of Salvador Dalí. Deeply impressed by its interior acoustics, the surrealist genius organized a private concert singing inside it, in the 60′s, probably in the final room.

But that’s not all. Cova d’en Gispert provides for two days a year a happy coincidence when the sun enlightens the interior completely, so that the sun’s rays reach the end of the cave, up the hall. This phenomenon is called “Awakening of the sun in the Cove d’en Gispert,” a happy astronomical coincidence that usually occurs approximately on 21 and August 22 of each year. During these two days sunrises kayak expeditions are usually organized by kayak groups in order to watch from inside the cave the entrance of the sun’s rays… and the full enlightenment of the cave. Only those who have had the opportunity to experience it know the emotion of this moment.

This map shows the different sea caves we find between Llafranc and Aiguablava

Begur Castle, in Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

Although Iberian civilisation remains have been found on the same mountain, the origins of the castle dates back to the XIth century, when the feudal lord, Arnust of Begur, built this on one of the highest mountains of the village for the strategic position and the good views it provided. The building passed through different owners until King Pere IV the Ceremonious sells it to the Cruïlles family in 1360, which retains it until 1604, when Baron Carles de Vilademany Cruïlles sold it to city council of Begur, a very important fact, because it no longer returned to private hands again.

As can be seen, despite its charm and beauty, Begur Castle only keeps its foundations. Its current state is the result of its historical facts, a price that had to pay for its excellent strategic location.

Panomaric view got from Begur, in Girona, Costa Brava. Begur Castle is on the right side.

The castle has suffered during history three major destructions. The first one, during Catalan Civil War (1468), the second during the raid led by the French Duc de Noailles, in 1694. And the last and so far the final one, during the spanish War of the independence against the French, in 1810.

The current state of the castle, with the top decorated with beautiful merlons, is a delicate restoration work carried out during the XXth century. The entrances have also been conditioned so that it is now possible to visit even for people with limited mobility or moving in a wheelchair. There are no interior places to visit on the castle.

From the top of Begur Castle you'll have some help to identify the geographical Ampurdán points around

The view is absolutely outstanding. At the summit visitors will also find a beautiful sculpted ceramic map on which they will identify the different points of the landscape visible from this beautiful Ampurdán scenic view: the Medas islands, the bay of Roses, the Pyrenees (mountain of Canigó), Palamós, Sa Riera…

From the Begur Castle you get excellent views of Sa Riera beach, Medes Islands and the Bay of Roses

The Semáforo, in Cape of Begur, ancient maritime communications building

To get to Cape de Begur from the center of the village of Begur take the street Camí del Mar and then Cami del Semàfor. The latter is a paved road that was created when the building was inaugurated. It is in good condition but you should go with caution, since it is narrow and the traffic is two way. Once we reach the end of it, near the sea, we park our vehicle in the Cap de Begur urbanisation and walk about 5 minutes through a comfortable path, where we’ll see from the beginning, the building.

Cape of Begur offers excellent views of the coastal Begur Massif

Before reaching the gate of the fence, about 100 meters, we enjoy an excellent scenic view of the south of Cape de Begur, which directly overlooks the Aiguablava Bay. A tunnel excavated through a rock leads us to another curious viewpoint overlooking the sea.

A hundred meters before arriving to the Semàfor fence, to the right, you'll find this tunnel excavated into the rock whick offers great scenic views to the sea

The Semàfor is currently a disused building. However, since its opening in 1891 until the 70′s it has been commissioned to provide guidance to maritime ships in the area. Today the tasks it was devoted have been automated and satellite technology has managed to supply their duties.

In spite of being in disuuse, the Semàfor building stays in a very good structural condition

However, at the time, the creation of this service was quite an event for the village of Begur. In dispute with Palafrugell, which proposed the Sant Sebastià Lighthouse location, it was finally delivered to Begur so that December 10th 1891 the mayor of Begur, Josep Font, on behalf of King Alfonso XIII, inaugurated the electrosemaphorical station. A popular party at the Casino Union Bagurense was organised to celebrate this historical achievement for the village.

Ancient illustration of Semáforo in Cape of Begur, beginning XXth century

Sunset in Fornells harbour, in Begur, Girona, Costa Brava

Due to its favorable conditions, a place by the sea surrounded by pine trees and abundant fishing, Fornells has become a very original location that has not lost any of its original beauty.

Ships in Fornells harbour, Begur, Costa Brava

The harbour is one of its main features. And from this point it is possible to travel both north and south through the coast pathways that start from here. Heading south to Aiguablava, you find Cala de Ses Orats. The path leading to it passes through seaside extremely picturesque cottages, as El Paradis, belonging the begur entrepreneur, writer and politician Bonaventura Sabater.

Coastal path to Cala Ses Orats, in Fornells, Begur, Costa Brava

After Cala de Ses Orats, go to the Cala d’en Malaret, made of fine sand. The creek is small and surrounded by rocks, with excellent views over the bay of Aiguablava and the national parador (the luxurious hotel). A little further away you’ll find the Port d’Esclanyà.

From Cala Malaret, views to Cala Aiguablava and Parador Nacional are excellent

From the Fornells harbour, to the north, the coastal path passes through the interior of a small tunnel excavated in the rock that leads to the n’Estàsia creek. This is a long shaped cove, about 20 meters long and only 5 meters wide, of great beauty as it is embedded deeply into the rock of the coast, from which emerges a sweet water source. Beyond n’Estasia it is possible to see the Cap Rubí (Ruby Cape), and the elegant Dr. Arruga villa. He the color rocks in the coast changes passing from the the reddish to the gray, and in some places almost to black, as close to Platja Fonda, which is just a few meters to the north.

Coastal pahts around Fornells coves are in excellent condition

Fornells is a small place of Begur, Costa Brava, that deserves, thanks to the harbour, the coastal paths and the small coves, a very  interesting visit.