Porta Ferrada Monastery facade, in Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Girona, Costa Brava

Located in the center of the village, and close to the seafront, the monastery appears documented in the tenth century, when it was founded under the patronage of Sant Feliu, an African martyr. It is located inside an ancient fortress where archaeological remains have been found that are exposed to the public at the City Museum, also located in the complex.

External view of the towers in the architectural site Porta Ferrada, in Sant Feliu de Guíxols

The monastery itself, as today appears to us, was built in the eleventh century, although the current Baroque style comes from the work on the old building in the eighteenth century. The particularity of its facade, composed of three horseshoe-shaped arches, supported by four cylindrical columns, give the whole its catalan name Porta Ferrada (horseshoe-shaped door), and it’s the main symbol of this beautiful village, and also gives its name to the most famous music festival held every summer in Sant Feliu de Guíxols. On either side are two medieval defensive towers: Smoke Tower (Torre del Fum, of semicircular plant from which centuries ago were emitted smoke signals by sentinels to surroundings to warn about the arrival of enemies, mainly pirates by sea) and the Horn Tower (Torre del Corn, of rectangular plant and from where this instrument was rung with the same warning goal).

Torre del Fum (Smoke Tower) in Porta Ferrada Monastery, Sant Feliu de Guíxols

The Sant Benet Arch (Benet is Benedict Saint), of 1747, is facing the whole and was during many centuries the main entrance to the architectural site.

Sant Benet Arch, old entrance to the Porta Ferrada Monumental Site

The interior of the building has the Museum of History of the City, the Municipal Archives and the headquarters of the Official School of Tourism of Catalonia. The museum, a visit to it is highly recommended to admire the rest of the houses of monumental site, is composed of four rooms showing permanent exhibitions.

Thanks to the initiative of Baroness Thyssen, Carmen Cervera, it is expected that in the future the monastery hosts part of the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, specifically the Catalan Art works corresponding to the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, approximately 350. Not to forget the close relationship of the Baroness with Sant Feliu, where she owns a magnificent villa. This news, announced in 2008, will increase the overall artistic prestige of this ancient architectural site, an inexcusable visit for those wishing to explore the medieval architectural heritage of the Costa Brava.

Pals Beach, between Begur and Pals, near Medes Islands, in Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

In Pals Beach, the Costa Brava is for a few kilometers no more “brava” arriving at l’Estartit harbour, where, again, begins the succession of rocky coves to the north.

However, precisely because of its width and for its warm sand, this wide beach, commonly known as Platja de Pals, actually still belongs to the Begur village,  and is very visited in summer, especially by the inhabitants of the area who prefer to enjoy a wide and spacious beach before staying in the little creeks, perhaps the most beautiful in a natural sense, although less comfortable for the space to share.

Pals Beach has many attractions. Facing toward the Medes Islands, in the background, they are a reference point that is never lost. The beach also allows interesting walks through the coast: to the south, toward the Begur massif, begins a coastal path that, through the nudist beach Illa Roja, brings us to the cove of Sa Riera. North along the beach takes you to the mouth of the river Daró and, a little further to the Ter.

To the south, from Pals Beach, we can visit in ten minutes the beautiful beach (nudist) Illa Roja, also in Begur

Another of the natural characteristics of this beautiful beach are dunes, real ecosystems that develop in accumulations of wind-borne sand. In these regions they are due to the strong north wind, the Tramuntana, which manages to carry large amounts of sand from the bay of Roses until just before the mountains of Begur. Therefore the plant species who grow here are of high scientific value and are studied with great interest, so it was decided to protect them from human action and, walking along the coast, you will find their access restricted by strings. Please do not pass them to not harm this delicate habitat.

Pals dunes are protected ecosystems created by the Tramuntana wind action on the beach sand

The Raco beach is 400 meters long and 40 meters wide, and it is a continuum of several kilometers of beach that reaches l’Estartit village. In it there is always space for everyone, even in summer, making it the perfect choice for visitors to the small coves of Begur who prefer sunbathing with some extra space in the sand. It also has showers, several bars, hire pedalos and bars and restaurants very close to beach. In addition there are several sailing sports centers that offer the perfect opportunity to get started in sports such as sailing and windsurfing, taking advantage of the excellent wind conditions offered by Platja del Racó.

Platja del Racó is a wide sandy beach that allow many leisure activities for children and adults

Pottery shop in l'Aigüeta Street, in la Bisbal d'Empordà

This shopping street gather most traders engaged in the clay industry. The colourful products are exhibited on the street, as well as figures. And this exhibition is made along the avenue, forming a kind of open air museum. Many shops displaying their pottery have their own workshop inside.

Ampurdan pottery is well-know for the decorative style

The first record we have of the pottery tradition in la Bisbal de l’Empordà comes from the year 1511, through a document relating to an oven where clay pans were baked (clay objects have to be baked to make them hard). It was especially in the second half of the eighteenth century when we see a huge rise in the sector, coinciding with the strong demographic expansion in the village. Finally, after another renewed growth of the sector in the nineteenth century, was founded in 1899 the Ceramists Workers Union (Unió Obrera de Ceramistes), a cooperative that included all workers of ceramics, demonstrating the importance that this artistic activity had in la Bisbal.

Handwork of pottery decoration on a plate in la Bisbal d'Empordà

Any visitor who is interested in pottery manufacture should know that there are two distinct groups or styles: “botxa” and “pisa”. If the object is made of just one piece then it is “botxa”: vases, statues, etc. If instead the object is made from different pieces of clay then it is “pisa” style: cups, plates, bowls, etc.

Some pottery objects created in la Bisbal d'Empordà

The village also has a Pottery Museum or Museum of the Terracotta exhibiting traditional pieces, and where visitors can know the development of this art in la Bisbal. Also, the village council and the craftsmen union take great interest in the continuation of this important tradition, organizing school workshops where young artists can develop their abilities and try to innovate in order assure the future of the ceramic art in the la Bisbal.

Ceramics workshorp. Clay and handcraft.

Lake of Banyoles, interior Ampurdán, Costa Brava

Pla de l’Estany (in Catalan estany means pond) is a region rich in water, since it is located between two river basins: the Fluvià one in the north, and the river Ter in the south. For this reason it has several ponds, and the Banyoles lake is the best known. Of great beauty, with a shape of number eight, this lake also has a huge ecological value because it builds up around an enormous diversity of plant and animal living habitat that benefits from the fresh water the lake provides.

Panoramical view of the quiet waters in Lake of Banyoles

Banyoles is the village situated on the right bank. The importance of the lake to its people is vital and constitutes one of the main symbols of their identity. In fact the village was able to grow to its shores by irrigation canals that the Benedictine monks of the monastery of Sant Esteve de Banyoles built in year 812. These canals are still preserved and cross Banyoles streets. At the time these works allowed lake flood control and increased the habitability in the area. Subsequently less urgent uses appeared, as washing clothes, watering and industrial fields (fabric, paper, flour, etc.).

Rec de Can Hort, one of the ancient canals next to Banyoles Lake

Banyoles Lake is today a major tourist attraction and around it you can carry out several activities: Pinxo train, a small train that runs along the south side of the lake to reach the beautiful Romanesque church of Santa Maria Porqueres, the swimming area, boat travels across the lake, the fisher houses still kept…

Traditional fishermen house next to Lake of Banyoles

Lake of Banyoles, by its nature and landscape, is included in the plan area of ​​natural interest, so it has a high conservation status. For this reason visitors are invited to enjoy the presence without affecting its integrity.

Cala d'Aiguablava, in Begur, Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

This cove is superbly conditioned, and the access is really easy, as it has a large car park at its entrance. To get there, take the road that connects Begur and Palafrugell villages and take the signposted deviation.

Cala Aiguablava is really lively in midsummer. It has excellent services, as showers, parking, kayak rental and a bar-restaurant.

Aiguablava is 75 meters long and about 25 meters wide. You will find showers. The cove is surrounded by greenery, and a fairly privileged geographical position, as you will be able to admire, far away in north direction, the Cap de Begur, as well as the mountains surrounding the village of Begur in the east.

Crystal blue underwaters in Cala Aiguablava is really impressive

To the right of the creek, before descending the stairs of access, in the parking, begins a beautiful coastal path that, protected by the shade of pine trees and a wooden railing, and after offering beautiful views over the water, will lead you to an imposing hotel located next to this cove, in the Punta des Mut cape: we are talking about the Parador Nacional Aiguablava, the only hotel of this kind in the province of Girona. It was inaugurated in 1966, and its creation reflects the objective of the government to boost tourism in the area. The Parador is open throughout the year and broadens the demand of tourists who wish to visit Begur in winter.

North of the creek begins another coastal path that, after a succession of small coves and little ports, brings us finally to Fornells port and Platja Fonda. This way can be taken through the coastal path that starts on the left side of Cala Aiguablava.

North Aiguablava you'll find Port de Fornells and Platja Fonda, but the better views of Cape of Begur are actually in Aiguablava creek

From Aiguablava leave many canoes and small boats to the south of its coast, right to the most attractive sea caves of the Costa Brava and the entire Catalan coast, including the most famous, the Cova d’en Gispert, which allows passage of a canoe until the end of it, 150 meters long inside.

Torre Valentina, in Calonge, Costa Brava

Torre Valentina is one of the three towers of the village built as defensive system. The other two are Torre del Baró (located towards the center), and the Torre del Mal Ús (located near the mountains).

Torre Valentina is an impressive tower located in the middle of an urbanized environment

It was not easy to live in the Costa Brava during XVth, XVIth and XVIIth centuries. It was occupied by a population that lived enjoying the wonderful natural environment, but a threat especially hard for the coastal villages was piracy. We are talking about pirates ships arriving mainly from North Africa and Turkey, with heavily armed pirates. These brave men could, in a few hours, rape and kill the peaceful inhabitants of the coast, and even kidnap them to become slaves in distant lands, far away from Costa Brava.

Hence the poor villagers needed to erect towers to try to defend from pirates. There inside, the inhabitants could protect and even attack the invaders. When the tower was located next to the coast, they also had a watchtower man. The people in the village took turns to monitor the horizon. In this context Valentina Tower was erected in an approximate date between XVth and XVIth centuries. It is cylindrical, consisting of three floors, each separated by a corresponding vault, and finally a roof. Each of these plants, connected by wooden ladders and hatches, was a step in the defence against attackers.

Ancient picture of Valentina Tower, in Calonge, Costa Brava, when it was part of a traditional villa.

The materials used in its construction were taken from the land: broken stone, mortar, tile pieces, etc. Notice something else in its structure. The entrance is about 10 or 12 meters high! The guard entered the tower via a rope, that once up was withdrawn. That hindered the entry of the attackers. Another detail to note is that all loopholes were adapted to the use of firearms, so that from the inside the defenders could shoot the pirates.

Until 1960 the tower had attached a farmhouse, typical Catalan house, known as the Racó, one of the most emblematic places in the village of Calonge, especially before it was occupied by tourism.

Torre Valentina is located between an apartments building and the long beach that shares the same name, in Sant Antoni de Calonge

Cala de Sa Riera, in Begur. Background, Medes Islands.

Cala Sa Riera can be reached from the center of village by car (no more than 10 minutes), through a road that starts near Carmen Amaya villa, Mas Pinc. The descent down the road, about 5 minutes, offers some incredible views of Medes Islands in the distance, which are always present in the landscape of the creek. The road crosses the geographic feature that gives name to the creek: a little river (riera) that comes down from the mountain of Begur seaward, always dry in summer. At the entrance, this ancient mosaic welcomes us.

"Friend: it's not a pure mirage, not even a fable... SA RIERA is a beautiful place in Costa Brava. Welcome, enjoy it"

One of the reasons why Sa Riera is so popular, in addition to its amplitude, is the huge number of services it offers to its visitors. This creek is very familiar and children and adults will feel comfortable. The sea view boulevard has banks where you can sit and admire the wonderful view of the bay as a whole. It is also possible to sit in one of its many terraces, restaurants or bars, where you can enjoy a good drink in the shade.

Cala de Sa Riera is wide, with golden sand and very familiar, with good facilities

Sa Riera has services to a shower and boardwalk to the sand about, so that people in wheelchairs can also enter.

The creek has traditionally been a fishing village, and therefore still remain at the forefront some of these houses, evidence of a past still alive in direct contact with nature. If you look with attention you will verify the typical structure of a ground floor in which the vessel is often introduced to protect the storm, and a first floor that was proper housing. This seafaring past still lives on in the form of the little harbour, located in the southern part and adapted for little sport or traditional boats.

From Sa Riera begins, both sides, two separate coastal paths. To the south, further the small cove of Port del Pi, the path leads to a long stretch of unspoilt coastline forming the Natural Reserve of Ses Negres, a protected marine area of a great ecological value.

On the right side of Cala Sa Riera starts a coastal path that goes over a good stretch of Ses Negres Marine Reserve

To the south, once we cross the creek called Cala del Rei, with its excellent viewpoint, another walkway leads over the wonderful Illa Roja creek and, later, the beach of Pals.

Sa Riera image, once we walk over Cala del Rei, to Cala Illa Roja, through the coastal path

Gola del Ter beach, in Torroella de Montgrí, Girona, Costa Brava, Spain

The area is located south of the Basses d’en Coll, near Pals beach, on the south bank of the Daró river, that in facts marks the beginning of this long beach, about 5 km long, up to the end of another river, the Ter, along a protected nature reserve. From there, another 5 kms to the north, the beach arrives to l’Estartit.

Natural gaps on Ter river mouth, just in front of Medes Islands

You can arrive to this area through a road about 4 kms that starts in Torroella de Montgrí, for example right under the bridge across the Ter, coming from Pals. It’s a track that can be traveled by car, although if you cycle or walk you’ll enjoy much more what it offers. This road offers the chance to enjoy the end of the river, the quietest part of it, the characteristic vegetation, the typical local crops such as rice or fruit, etc.

Catalan farm among rice fields, near the Ter river mouth

Finally, as we approach the sea, we will see how the river begins to form gaps in the beach sand, mingling with it. Here nature has created a curious mixture of fresh and salt water. The name of the beach from a little mound, Fonollera, located just a few hundred meters inland, where some experts believe in the presence of a prehistoric settlement called Cypsela, and probably witnessed by ancient travelers. However, we still have no real proof of its existence.

Exact point where Ter river ends, forming gaps and a very interesting landscape

On the beach, the nearby presence of the Medes Islands is majestic. Around the area, only a few farmhouses, typical Catalan houses, and most from the XIXth century, are the only evidence of human presence. We are in a rich area of dunes and the associated vegetation: the reeds. It is important to respect this plants as they are part of the fragile ecological balance that forms this area.

Gola del Ter, just in front Medes Islands, is a beautiful protected zona, with a delicate ecosystem, extremely beautiful

La cala de Platja Fonda, en Begur, Costa Brava

To access Platja Fonda (literally ‘Deep beach’) from the center of Begur you’ve to take the same road that leads to Aiguablava or Fornells. Before arriving to Aiguablava, a left turn allows us to go through an urbanisation and park in a parking in a place from where we’ll descend on foot to our destination.

Platja Fonda panoramic view, in Begur, where you can see the impressive cliff on it

Platja Fonda is surrounded by a great wall that protects it. In fact we access to the beach through a set of stairs, in good condition, allowing us to see the cove with scenic views. Access is certainly one of the reasons why this creek has managed to remain so unspoilt and wild over the years.

Playa Fonda waters are blue and almost transparent, with a great fish richness

It has about 130 meters long and 35 wide. It features dark shades, due to the color of the sand (dark colored gravel) as well as by the shadow that the great back wall can project back on its waters. In summer it offers service bar.

Picture from the stairs downloading to Platja Fonda

The villa on the right, facing the sea, on Cap de Rubi, was owned by Dr. Arruga, a distinguished catalan ophthalmologist who stayed in Begur. On this side a coastal path leads to the port of Fornells (Fornells harbour).

Sun and shadows at sunset in Platja Fonda, Begur

One of the best pleasures in Canadell is, after having the lunch, to lay about two hours on the sand under a boat

Josep Pla, the great writer of the Costa Brava and Ampurdan, wrote this impression from the beach in which he spent so many summers, in the family villa, still standing. He wrote this feelings almost a century ago in his early work “The Grey Notebook”. Today we recall the same spirit and visit this beach, also close to other great places to visit, as Llafranc, Port-bo, or Sant Sebastia Lighthouse.

Canadell beach is small and very familiar. It has a length of 200 meters and about 27 meters wide. The sand is somewhat grainy. Access is easy, and you can arrive on foot, by car or even public transport.

Canadell beach was originally, centuries ago, a little village of fishermen

One of the main attractions of the beach is the seaside boulevard. Superbly conditioned, it offers to the visitors views of the villas, some of them some centuries old, as that historically linked to writer Josep Pla, which belonged to his family and where they enjoyed together the summer. The winter villa is in Llofriu: and it’s called the Mas Pla. As the sunny and warn weather approached in summer many families in those years used to move out next to the sea, to the coast of Palafrugell.

The villa in red, in the left side, belonged to Josep Pla family

Other special feature of this landscape is the large rock that sits on your right, “the chair”, a projection of rock from which many young people plunge into the sea.

Rock called "la Trona", located on the left side of Canadell beach

In Canadell beach many people know each other. This beach is so familiar and small that many visitors repeat every summer and have the opportunity of meeting the same passionated people of the place.

Canadell nights are special. It's time for a marine "ron cremat" drinking, based on rhum.

Don’t miss the elegant coastal path that, on the north side of the beach, leads to Llafranc bay, just 15 minutes away.